From hot air balloon excursions over the Sonoran Desert, to art and architecture, to stunning sunrises and sunsets, Scottsdale proves the perfect spot for a romantic getaway

On an early November morning, as I watch the morning sun creep across the Sonoran Desert, turning the sky fuchsia and tangerine and painting the McDowell Mountain range in muted shades of plum and heather, while multicoloured hot air balloons chase their shadows across the landscape, I can understand why so many artists call Arizona home.

My husband and I are about to take flight with Hot Air Expeditions to kick off a romantic four-day getaway in Scottsdale, and as we prepare to climb into a smallish wicker basket with 10 other passengers and a pilot, propelled only by propane and a breeze, I tamper my apprehensiveness and hop in. And I’m glad I did. Our hot-air balloon experience was one of the most peaceful and beautiful flights I’ve taken. Later we sip mimosas and enjoy a picnic breakfast amid the saguaro cacti, while we share why we’re here. Many were celebrating a milestone birthday or anniversary — for me, it was both.

Scottsdale offers a plethora of romantic activities to enjoy as a couple and others to get a little personal time. Here’s what our romantic getaway looked like:

Art appreciation

You could spend your days here looking at art. Scottsdale makes it easy for you to find your way to the many public art installations with The Old Town Scottsdale art walk map.

Even before this community in the Sonoran Desert was named Scottsdale, it was a mecca for artists drawn by stunning scenery, near perfect weather and support from the pioneer ranchers and farmers recruited by U.S. Army Chaplain Winfield Scott. Sculptures not to be missed are The Bronze Horse Fountain, a spectacular sight at sunset; local artist George Ann Tognoni’s Winfield Scott Memorial, sculpted from a photo of the city’s founding couple, Scott and Helen (riding Old Maud) and The Yearlings. Swing by the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art to see Arizona-based earth and light artist James Turrell’s Knight Rise Skyspace and peek at what’s on inside the gallery.

You can easily spend half a day at Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West. The gallery is chock full of Western and Native American art and artifacts on loan from or donated by collectors and institutions. A larger-than-life sculpture of newlyweds arriving at the annual fair on the Crow Agency in Montana circa 1900 “Honeymoon at Crow Fair” serves as a teaser for the extensive collection of John Coleman’s compelling bronzes inside. In addition to a stunning permanent collection, on display during our visit was U.S. senator Barry Goldwater’s photographs of Native peoples of Northern Arizona from Arizona Highways magazine, and a selection of Paul Calle’s works, including the 1969 First Man on the Moon, commissioned for a postage stamp.

Scottsdale is also home to Taliesin West, Frank Lloyd Wright’s winter home and school nestled in the foothills of the McDowell Mountains. The UNESCO World Heritage site consists of a handful of low-slung buildings made from local rock, cement and desert sand to mimic the hilly terrain. The 90-minute tour provides an overview of the architect at work and the life he and Olgivana, his third wife, created for fellows of the school. Scattered about the grounds are sculptures by Heloise Crista, who, though not an architect, joined the Taliesin West Fellowship in 1949 to be in “the atmosphere of such ideas and such people as Mr. and Mrs. Wright and the community of apprentices.” I recommend taking the last tour of the day to experience the sunset unspoiled by the steel towers and powerlines that Wright said destroyed his view of the valley.

Grape expectations

While California and Oregon are widely known for great wine, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the local grape available for sampling in Old Town Scottsdale. We hit up Merkin Vineyards, which has a sizeable tasting menu and knowledgeable staff to guide you through it. Merkin’s estate vineyards in Verde Valley and Willcox are planted with Mediterranean varietals  ­ think Malvasia Bianca, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo and Negroamaro. Cross the road to LDV Winery (Lawrence Dunham Vineyards) to sample wine from Sky Island nestled in the foothills of the Chiricahua Mountains of southeastern Arizona. With an elevation of 5,000 feet, the terroir’s geology and cool temperatures produce award-winning Rhone-varietal wines, such as LDV’s smoky, complex Petite Sirah.

Luxurious retreats

Splitting our stay between Paradise Valley and North Scottsdale allowed us to get a feel for both city and desert terrain.

For romance and charm, you can’t go wrong with The Hermosa Inn. Once the hacienda and art studio of Lon Megargee, the resort nestled in Paradise Valley close to the Old Town has retained its Southwestern architectural style while paying tribute to one of Arizona’s foremost cowboy artists. Turn over the Stetson hat in the lobby and you’ll understand why the bar is named Lon’s Last Drop. The resort is made up of 43 warm, intimate casitas that are kitted out with a deep soaker tub, and comfy leather wingback chairs circled around a beehive gas fireplace. Deconstructing our outings over a glass of wine chosen from an expansive subterranean wine cellar, while cozying up to a massive wood-burning fireplace on the patio at Lon’s Last Drop was a perfect end to a busy day of sightseeing.

Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North, nestled in the shadow of Pinnacle Peak away from the distractions of downtown, is the perfect spot for some downtime. The resorts two-storey casitas blend into the desert landscape, while soothing desert tones with pops of orange and turquoise and a traditional beehive gas fireplace warm the interior. There are a host of complimentary activities on tap, from an informative evening spent with a desert night-sky expert to weekend beer and wine tastings, and a guided morning hike on Pinnacle Peak.

After a morning hike, I headed to the spa for a tub soak with pink Himalayan salt and essential oil followed by a custom massage — exactly what I needed to unknot tight calf muscles and release some stress. My husband, who spent the morning playing the course at Pinnacle at Troon North, reported that the par-71 course was both challenging and beautiful, offering stunning views of the desert and cactus-strewn obstacles that he swears swallow golf balls.

All too quickly, the sun set on our romantic retreat. On our final night in Scottsdale, we found ourselves admiring the same vivid colours of our first sunrise from comfy chairs on the patio at Onyx Bar overlooking Pinnacle Peak, while sipping prickly pear margaritas and munching on handmade chips.

The writer was a guest of Experience Scottsdale.

Table for two

Dining at local restaurants is a great way to experience authentic regional cuisine, but don’t dismiss the kitchens at resorts, which often hire top local chefs. Here are a few gems we discovered:

• Brunch LON’s Restaurant‘s patio at The Hermosa Inn is a popular weekend brunch spot, so getting a table in the shade of a mesquite tree can be challenging. Forget calorie counting and order the sinfully delicious monkey bread — brioche smothered in caramel, pecans, and cream cheese frosting to have with your coffee before tucking into a main dish.
• Dinner FnB Restaurant in downtown Scottsdale, has been winning awards and accolades for its amazing local fare since 2009. Co-owner and chef Charleen Badman sources the best produce from local farmers for her mouth-watering, globally inspired dishes, while co-owner Pavle Milic, who does double duty as front-of-house manager and beverage director, champions Arizona winemakers. During a fall visit we shared a roasted beefsteak tomato with sumac, quark, kukka and grilled bread; persimmons with yuzu kosho (an acidic, spicy Asian condiment), honey, bee pollen, pistachios, and tarragon; a roasted half chicken with mustard spaetzle (noodles), romano beans and pan jus; and a triple dose of chocolate: a two-layer fallen souffle, with mousse and sauce. It doesn’t get much more romantic than sharing plates of mouth-watering food, paired with awesome wines.
• At Talavera Restaurant, a modern Spanish steakhouse at Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale, the desert sunsets from a table on the patio or through the floor-to-ceiling windows in the dining room, usher in a romantic evening. Start with a gin cocktail at the gin bar, then order from an extensive menu of tapas, traditional Spanish charcuterie, crudo, paella and steak, complete with a list of 500 wines from around the world. We shared a Verde Paella chock full of broccolini, shishito pepper, chard, kale, leek, brussels sprouts and grilled squash, and a baby beet salad with soft sheep’s cheese from Spain, walnuts, blackberries and honey, with our eight-ounce dry-aged filet mignons.
• At The Mission, adjacent to the 1930s Old Adobe Mission church, a wall of lit Himalayan pink-salt blocks, elegant chandeliers and flickering candlelight set the mood for a night of modern Latin cuisine, inspired by the traditions of Spain, Mexico, and Central and South America. Start with a signature margarita — spicey, tart or sweet — and 12-ingredient guacamole made table-side and served with freshly made tortilla chips. If you have room for dessert, a Guatemalan chocolate pastilla with a glaze of XO tequila, fig and guajillo, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and spicy cocoa nibs is divine.